Cosmetics Safety

The skincare industry is a multi billion dollar industry that’s growing every year. The variety and range of products are overwhelming. The marketing claims around those products as well as their clean cut packaging make them all very attractive to the point that it is easy to believe that they are safe to use both for us and the environment.

However, except for color additives, the FDA does not have to approve a cosmetic product or its ingredients. Only 11 ingredients are prohibited to be used in cosmetics in the U.S., while over 1,300 chemicals are banned in Europe. With that being said, it is extremely important to always read a product’s label before buying and research the ingredients you don’t know about. Don’t just stop at the “look younger” statement.

Here is a list of some of the most common found ingredients in skincare products and their danger:

  1. Parabens: used as a preservative to prevent bacteria, mold and yeast growth. Associated with increased risk of breast cancer. Look for ingredients whose names end with “-paraben”, and start with “methyl-“, “propyl-“, “butyl-“, and “ethyl-“.
  2. Synthetic colors: used to make the cosmetic product “pretty”. Potentially a human carcinogen, skin irritant and associated with ADHD in children. On the label, look for the letters FD&C or D&C followed by a color and number (i.e. FD&C Red No. 6 / D&C Green No. 6)
  3. Synthetic fragrance: used to give a pleasant smell to the product. As many as 200 chemicals can be used and 95% of those chemicals derive from petroleum products. The use of synthetic fragrance in skincare can lead to headaches, skin irritation, rash, hyperpigmentation, vomiting, cancer, birth defects, etc. If the label says “Fragrance”, it’s a big No.
  4. Formaldehyde: used as a preservative to prevent bacteria growth. Linked to cancer and skin irritation. Look for the following chemicals on the labels:
    • DMDM hydantoin
    • Imidazolidinyl urea
    • Diazolidinyl urea
    • Quaternium-15
    • Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol )
    • 5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
    • Hydroxymethylglycinate
  5. Sodium lauryl sulphate/ sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS): used for creating foam (shampoo, shower gel). SLS can lead to skin issues (allergies, irritations, dermatitis. dandruff, etc.) and is found in about 90% of the “foaming” beauty products. Look for SLS, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium dodecyl sulfate.
  6. Siloxanes: used to soften and smoothen, commonly referred to as silicon. Siloxanes are toxic and can lead to endocrine issues, fertility issues and can have a negative effect on the nervous system. They are also extremely harmful to the wildlife, especially the fish. On the label, look for ingredients ending in “-siloxane” or “-methicone”.
  7. Phthalates: used to make cosmetics flexible. Phthalates are chemicals added to plastics to increase their durability, flexibility, and transparency. Used in cosmetics, they can lead to endocrine and reproductive issues, as well as damage the kidney, liver, and lungs. On the labels look for the ingredients: Fragrance, Phthalate, DEP, DBP, DEHP.
  8. Petrolatum: used for its emollient properties, also known as petroleum jelly. Petrolatum can lead to dryness of the skin (the opposite of what it is supposed to do), potential cancer concert (petrolatum contains PAHs, a known carcinogens). On the label, look for Petrolatum, Petroleum Jelly, Paraffin Oil, and Mineral Oil. Fully refined petrolatum (white petrolatum) is considered safe to use.
  9. Hydroquinone: used to lighten the skin. If used for a long time, hydroquinone can lead to serious skin issues. On the label, look for Hydroquinone or Tocopheryl acetate.
  10. Triclosan: used for its strong anti-bacterial properties or as a preservative. Triclosan may lead to thyroid disfunction. Usually found in deodorants, shaving cream, mouthwash, etc. On the label, look for Triclosan (TSC), Triclocarban (TCC).
  11. Oxybenzone: Used to strengthen the color and smell in cosmetic products, also used as a sunblock. Oxybenzone can cause ski allergies and irritation but if used too often can lead to endocrine disruption. On the label, look for Oxybenzone, Benzophenone-3, BP-3.
  12. Ethanolamin compounds such as Monoethanolamin (MEA), Diethanolamine (DEA), Triethanolamine (TEA): TEA is used as fragrance, pH adjuster and emulsifier. DEA is also used as an emulsifiers. When combined with other chemicals in the product, some of these ethanolamines can form carcinogens. Other health concerns are organ toxicity (liver and kidney) as well as reproductive issues among men. On the label, look for the following ingredients:
    • Triethanolamine or TEA
    • Diethanolamine or DEA
    • Cocamide DEA
    • Cocamide MEA
    • DEA-cetyl phosphate
    • DEA oleth-3 phosphate
    • Lauramide DEA
    • Linoleamide MEA
    • Myristamide DEA
    • Oleamide DEA
    • Stearamide MEA
    • TEA-lauryl sulfate

Below are some great resources to learn more about these chemicals and ensure the safety of the products you plan on buying:

  • Safecosmetic.org: They provide “red lists,” to avoid certain harmful chemicals in each one of these product categories: shampoo, conditioner, creams, sunscreen, color cosmetics, hair color and skin. lighteners.
  • Environmental Working Group EWG: Their program Skin Deep® provides a free search engine that you can use to research nearly 70,000 products and 9,000 ingredients.
  • The Good Guide: In a way similar to EWG, they provide information on thousands of cosmetic products as well as household products. Check the Good Guide here.